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OF FASHION AND MANNERS.

FASHION.
Our rooms are filled with pyramids of china, and adorned with the workmanship of Japan. Our morning draught comes to us from the remotest corners of the Earth. We repair our bodies with the drugs of Americia, and repose ourselves under Indian canopies. My friend Sir Andrew calls the vineyards of France our gardens; the Spice Islands our hot-beds; the Persians our silk weavers, and the Chinese our potters.''

BEAU.
A Narcissus that is fallen in love with himself and his own shadow, within doors he is a great friend to the great glass, before which he admires the works of his taylor more than the whole creation. His body's but a poor stuffing in a rich case, like bran to a lady's pincuscion...His fool's egg, which lies hid in a nest of hair. His brains are the yolk, which conciet has addled.''
Ned Ward.

CLERGYMEN.
''His,[Fredrick Hervey, Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry] figure is little, and his face very sharp and wicked; on his head he wore a purple valvet nightcap with a gold tassel of gold hanging over his shoulders and a sort of mitre in the front; silk stockings and slippers of the same colour, and a short round petticoat, such as bishops wear, fringed with gold about his knees. A loose dressing gown of silk was then thrown over his shoulders. In this Merry Andrew train he rode on horseback to the never ending amusement of all beholders ! The last time I saw him he was sitting in a carriage with two Italian women, dressed in a white bed gown and night cap like a witch and giving himself the airs of an Adonis.''
Catherine Wilmot.

DANDY.
''...a clothes wearing man, a man whose trade, office and existance consists in the wearing of clothes. Every facaulty of his soul, spirit, purse, and person is heroically consecreted to this one object, the wearing of clothes wisely and well; so that as others dress to live, he lives to dress...''
Thomas Carlyle.

FIREMEN.
The summoned firemen woke at call
And hied them to their stations all;
Starting from short brokensnooze
Each sought his ponderous hob-nailed shoes;
But first his worsted hosen pilied,
Plush breeches next in crimson dyed
His nether bulk embraced.
Then jacket thick of red or blue
Whose massey shoulders gave to view
The badge of each respective crew.
Horace Smith.

FOPS.
''...a parcel of spruce, powdered fopling, with their hair tucked under a tortoishell comb, their sleeves flicked up above their elbows, a gold-headed cane in one hand and an agate box in 'toher, with a nose full of snuff and a head full of - nothing.''
Gentlemans Magazine.

''He's a mere compound of a toymans shop,
Made up of essence bottles, seals and rings,
Of tooth-picks, snuff-box and such geegaw things;
His learning dangles in his golden chain,
Sence, fine as amber, in his clouded cane.
R.Lloyd.

FUNERALS.
''We all had a white hat band and a pair of white gloves, but papa and Mr White the chief mourner.''
Parson Woodforde.

HAIR.
'You gave me hopes that if I desired it, you would cut it, I will, dear sir, be much obliged if you will.''
Henry Fox.[To his son].

HIGH FASHION.
''But what with my Nivernois hat can compare,
Bag wig, and lac'd ruffles, and black solitaire?
And what can a man of true fashion denote
Like an ell of good ribbon ty'd under the throat?''
The New Bath Guide.

His early dreams of good outstripped the truth,
And troubled manhood followed baffled youth.
Lord Byron.

HUNTSMEN.
''The, [French] huntsmans hair being compleatly dress'd as if going to a ball and their jack boots the only emblem of hunting.''
Frederick Hervey.

MACARONI.
''...A  kind of animal, neither male or female which talks without meaning, smiles without pleasantry, rides without exercise, wenches without passion.''
Oxford Magazine.

MEN.
''The stock, with buckle made of plate,has put the cravat out of date.
A well educated British Gentleman is of no country whatever, he unites in himself the chharactistics of all forign nations, he talks and dresses in French, and sings in Italian, he rivals the Spaniard in indolance, and the German for drinking, his house is Grecian, his offices Gothic and his furniture Chinese.''

These ruffles are too furiously starched, I shall throw people down as I move along - The ladies, Maname, love a good ruffle.
T.Baker.

''Paul, who had been in the sea-service and was called Captain, was a genteel, spirited young fellow. He was just a Macheath. He was dressed in a white coat and blue silk vest and silver, with his hair neatly queed and a silver hat, smartly cocked...He walked firmly and with a good air, with his chains rattling upon him [he was a prisnor in the Tower], to the chapel.''
James Boswell.

''I resolved to be a blackguard and to see all that was to be seen. I dressed myself in my second-mourning suit, in which I had been powdered in many months, dirty buckskin breaches and black stockings, a shirt of Lord Eglington's which I had worn two days, and a little round hat with tarnished silver lace belonging to a disbanded officer of the Royal Volunters. I had in my hand an old oaken stick battered against the pavement. And was I not a compleate blackguard?''
James Boswell.

''He had on just a plain frock. If I had not seen half of his star, I should not have known him. But maybe you'll say a half a star is sometimes better than a whole moon. Eh? ha! ha! ha!
James Boswell.

Nobles contend who throws a whip best,
From head to foot like a hackney coachman dress'd.
Colman.

''Lord Thurlow dressed in a full suit of cloaths of the old fashion, great cuffs and massy buttons, great wig and long ruffles.''
Thomas Creevey.

''Lord Effingham had both the appearance both in his person and dress of a common country farmer, a great coat with brass buttons, frock fashion, his hair short, strait, and to appearance uncombed, his face rough, vulgar and brown, as also his hands.''
Samual Curwen.

''It was the bad stamina of the mind, which like those of the body were never rectified; once a coxcomb, alwys a coxcomb.''
Dr Johnson.

Lord Nelson seen walking in the Strand."...a pair of drab green breeches, high black gaiters, a yellow waistcoat, and a plain blue coat, with a cocked hat, quite square, a large green shade over the eye, carrying a gold headed stick in his hand."
John Theoppilus Lee.

''Hats are now worn upon average six inches and three-fifths broad in the brim and cocked between Quaker and Kevenhuller...there is a military cock and the mercantile cock; and while the beaux of St. Jame's mear theirs diagonally over their left or right eye, sailors wear their hats tucked down to the crown.''
London Chronical.

''I just saw, just now the Duke of Kingtson pass the door, dressed more like a footman than a Nobleman.''
''Why do you ever see a Nobleman dressed like himself walking ?''
Overheard.

''His best dress was at the time so very mean that one afternoon as he was following some ladies upstairs, on a visit to a lady of fashion, the house-maid, not knowing him, suddenly seized him by the shoulder and exclaimed,'Where are you going?'',striving at the same time to drag him back.''
Reported.

Watches...A repeater by Graham, which the hours reveals,
Almost overbalanced with knick-knacks and seals.
Salisbury Journal.

''...I had no umbrella, they were little used, and very dear. There were no waterproof hats, and my hat has often been reduced by rains inti its primative pulp.''
Rev Sydney Smith.

''...and I knew aged persons who remembered swords being held as an indespensible article of costume. The discontinuance of this practice may be concidered as in moral view an important improvement on the fashions of our fathers. On the occasion of sudden quarrels, especially in drunken brawls, the ready command of a dangerous weapon was unfortunatly the frequent cause of bloodshed...''
Thomas Somerville.

The new patent waterproof cloth in scarlet and other colours. Effectually repals humidity as to occasion the rain to run off its surface.''
The Times.

''Mr Micklethwaite had in his shoes a pair of silver buckles which cost between seven and eight pounds. Miles Branthwaite had a pair that cost five guineas.''
Parson Woodforde.

POSTMEN.
The guard of the mail coach is one of the grandest and most swaggering fellows I ever behold, dressed in ruffles and nankeen breeches, and white stockings.
Hon John Bying.

SNUFF.
Snuff-Box.
Companion of each fleeting hour,
Of pleasure, and of pain;
Loud I extol thy soothing power,
Nor sing thy praise in vain.

''The clashing of their snuff-box lids made more noise that their tongues.''
Ned Ward.

Snuff or the fan supply each pause of chat,
With singing, laughing, ogling and all that.
Pope.

'SPORT
'...a green coat with white waistcoat and breeches, a black hat, green and white feathers, white stockings, half boots, a buff coloured leather belt with a pouch and green tassle, and black leather bracer.''
Society of Archers.

''We stopped to see L'd Villiers play at tennis ball, it was a most comical sight to brhold his lordship [who is reckond a handsome man] in a nightcap without a neck-cloth and destitute of waistcoat, it was a very good match.''
Wynne.

TOBBACCO.
The College of Medicine of Stockholm has discovered that the leaves of the potatoe-root, dried in a particular manner, give a tobbacco far superior, in point of fragrance,to ordinary, tobbacco. The King has, in consequence ordered the public authorities to favour by every means in their power the cultivation of this root.
Gentlemens Magazine.

MANNERS.

ROYAL MISTRESSES.
Lady Dorchester, [Mistress to James II] to the Duchess of Portsmouth, [Mistress to Charles II] & Lady Orkney, [Mistress to William III], at the coronation of George I, ''Good God ! Who would have thought we three whores would have met togather here, [Westminster Abbey] !"

Mary Anne Clarke.
''How we'll live on the fat of the land, and -
Johnny Bull who pays for it all
will pay I do not doubt it
and if he don't why someone shall
so I don't care much about it.
Cruickshank.

" Itis said that Col. Edward Guelph, forth son of George Guelph, the present King of England, has embarked at one of the eastern ports to join Gen. Charles Grey, in his attack on Guadalope. One would suppose that his baggage should follow.
Saturday the soi-disant LAUNDRESS of said Col. arrived in this city. Her pomp, equipage, and etiquette are said to be much more splendid than the laundresses' in general of New York. What is the destination of this GREAT PERSONAGE we have not yet learnt; it is said however that she is bound for England."
New York Journal.

WEDDING DRESS.
"She was dressed in a sack of white satin, embriodered on the breast with gold; the crown of her head was covered with a small French cap, from whence descended her beautiful hair in ringlets that waved upon her snowy neck, which dignified the necklace I had given her."
Roderick Randome,[Tobias Smollett].

WOMEN.
Ladies appear at court and elsewhere,
In borrowed complections, false bottoms, and hair.

Let your stomacher stretch from shoulder to shoulder,
And your breast will appear much fairer and boulder.

By long rent cloak, hung loosely, strove the bride,
From every eye, what all percieved, to hide.

''Madame Grassini...appeared at the opera in Roman costume, a pair of tight flesh coloured pantaloons, close fitting, and over them a thin white shawl drapery that clung in loose folds to her form, making nudness seem more nude.

''...drawers of light pink now the ton among our darling belles''
Chester Chronical.

With the rude wind her rumpled garment rose,
And shewed her taper leg and scarlet hose.
John Gay.

Let each fair maid, who fears to be disgrac'd
Ever be sure to tie her garters fast,
Lest the loose string, amidst the public ball,
A wished - for prize to some proud fop should fall.

''...the ladies begin to wear Morocco half boots and Hussar riding habits.''
Ipswich Journal.

''A lady's leg is a dangerous sight in whatever colour it appears, but when it is enclosed in white it makes an irrestible attack upon us."
Universal Spectator.

She wore her gear so short, so low her stays,
Fine folk shew all for nothing nowadays.

"She minced along beside me prating her new cloathes and that gown she was wearing cost so much, which I doe know is onlie her last yeres turned about and new bowes on for show."
Anne Hughes.

"...for she dined with us with a Spanish hat and feathers, faux Diannays - in short everything that could dazzle and surprize."
Maria Linley.

At a play..."in an old black bonnet and her own cloaths and a man's greatcoat over all. This is quite a new style. I suppose she thinks her natural charms shone through the surtout."
Maria Linley.

"Such hats, capuchins and short sacs as were never seen. One of the ladies looks like a state bed running upon casters - she had robbed athe valance and tester of a bed for trimming."
Elizabeth Montague.

The servant girls they imitate
The pride in every place, sir
And if they wear a flowered gown
They'll have it made short waist sir.
J.Robertson.

"Mrs Howlett was at church and exibited for the first time, a black veil over her face. Times must be good for farmers when their wives can dress in such style."
Parson Woodforde.

Lovers beware ! To wound how can she fail,
With scarlet finger and jetty nail ?
Edward Young.

 MANNERS.

"Don't judge of men's wealth or piety, by their Sunday Appearances."

On hoops and high heels
The petticoats of modest use,
But should a lady chance to fall
The hoop forbidden secreats show.
And lo' our eyes discover all.
Then breaches with high heels, I trow,
All hooped modest ladies wear
For it is plain, these modes we owe
For cupid and the culling fair.

"Well may we laugh at laws which you intrench
Whose equipage and politicks are French:
Your dres, your airs, and all your modes of fashion
Borrowed from that fantastick nation!"

The sight of great folks, [at Ranleigh Gardens] is what they came to see, and how they are dressed, and how they walk, and how they talk.

"If Venus herself had been present, I could not have admired her for the first hour, during which most of the poor scantily clothed women then present had very blue noses, and shoulders of the fairest peau satinee were puckered up into goose flesh; the sight of which nearly froze my already chilled blood."

"...a severe, though we fear too just a satire on the frivolities of a fashionable life, as written in the journal of a young lady, whose early career in the vortex of dissapation had been checked by illness and a sprained ancle."
Gentlemans Magazine.

Fash..."Why Lorry, though I have played many a roguish trick, this is so full grown a cheat, I find I must I must take pains to come up to't - I have scruples."
Lory..."They are strong symptoms of death. If you find they increase, sir, prey make your will."
R.B.Sheridan.[A Trip to Scarborough].

"Being convinced that the Expressions I made use of to Mr.Sheridans Disadvantage were the effects of Passion and Misrepresention, I retract what I have said to that Gentlemans Disadvantage and particulary beg his pardon for my Advertisment in 'The Bath Chronicle'.
Thomas Matthews.

"I feel myself now quite easy at Colonel Gould's. He is a most amiable man. I like him very much for his great degree of indolance. He loves to lie a bed dearly, and greatly grumbles at the thoughts of undergoing the fatigue of dressing."
James Boswell.

"So at twelve o'clock, I say I,[Lord Foppington] rise. Now, if I find it a good day, I resolve to take the exercise of riding; so drink my chocolate, and drawer on my boots by two. On my return, I dress; and after dinner, lounge perhaps to the opera."
R.B.Sheridan.[A Trip to Scarborough].

"I hate affectation of all kinds. I never could bear those ridiculous women who cannot step over a straw without expecting a man who is walking with them to offer his hand. I always said to the men, when they offered me their hand, "No.no; I have got legs of my own, don't trouble yourselves">
Hester Stanhope.

"Tradeswomen, [I mean the wives of tradesmen in the city] are the worst creatures on earth, grossly ignorant, and thinking viciousness fashionable, jealously malignant against women of quality."
Dr Johnson.

"The fury after licentious and luxurious pleasures is grown to so great a height, that it may be called the charactistic of the present age."
Henry Fielding.

"I have been obliged to promise the Duke, [of Wellington] to visit him in the country tomorow. You have no idea how much this bores me and puts me out. He has unfortunatly taken it into his head that his house is the most comfortable in the world. Well there two very definate drawbacks to that comfort. It is always cold there and his wife is stupid. What's to be done ?"
Madame de Lieven

Thus while the Nobleman will emulate the granduer of the Prince; and the Gentleman will aspire to the proper state of the Nobleman; the Tradesman steps from behind his counter into the vacant place of the Gentleman, Nor doth the confusion end here; It reaches the very dregs of the people.
Henry Fielding.

"The stiffness, the proud and artificial reserve, which in former ages infected even the intercourse of private life, are happily discarded."
Thomas Gisbourne.

"Two men of any other nation who are shewn into a room togather, at a house where they are both visitors, will imediatly find some conversation. But two Englishmen will probably go each to a different window, and remain in obstinate silence."
Dr Johnson.

"The present age will be hereafter merit to be called 'The Age of Reason', and will appear to the future as the advent of a 'New World'.
Tom Paine.

"From the moment I saw your letter to Lord Temple until now, I have uttered more blasphemies than a drunken parson in a bawdy-house."
Potter.

"Formality counts for nothing anf for the greater part of the time one pays no attention to it. Thus judged by French standards, the English, and especially the women, seem lacking in polite behavior. All young people I have met in society in Bury [St Edmunds] give the impression of what we should call badly brought up; they hum under their breath, they sit down in a large armchair and put their feet on another, they sit on any table in a room and do a thousand other things which would be ridiculous in France, but are done quite naturally in England."
La Rochefoucauld.

"The proudest Englishman will cinverse familiarly with the meanest of his countrymen; he will take part in their rejoicings...The great popularity, enjoyed by the nobility which always so much astonishes strangers, is congenial to the constitution of a free state. Is it not the effects of this conduct in the English nobility that makes them the most enlightened of their rank in Europe ?"
Madame Roland.

A Fart.
Fatherless and Motherless, and born without skin,
Speaks when it comes in the world, and never speaks again.
George Selwyn.

"We merchants are a species of gentry that have grown into the world this last century, and are as honourable and almost as useful as you landed folks that have always thought yourselves so much above us>"
Steele.

[Lady Talbot in the doorway of a crowded assembly]..."Bless me this is like the straights of Thermoplye." [Lady Northumberland replied]..."I don't know what street that is, but I wish I could get my [arse] through."

The Modern Young Woman.
A violated decency now reigns,
And nymphs for failings take particular pains...
They throw their persons with a hoyden air
Across a room and toss into a chair.
The modest look, the castigated grace,
The gentle movement and slow - measured pace...
Are incredulous in the modern mind.
Edward Young.